Meknes, Morocco

Volubilis
Today we headed out to Volubilis a Unesco World Heritage Site and excavations to date indicate the site was settled by Carthaginian Traders in the 3rd century BC.

Volubilis was annexed about 40 AD and was the Roman Empire’s most remote outpost. The Romans abandoned Volubilis due to Berber incursions about 240 AD but the city continued to be inhabited until the 18th century. About then the city’s marble was plundered to build Moulay Ismail palaces in Meknes and the city fell into ruin. Still at it’s hight it is estimate the city housed approximately 20000 people.

We hired a guide for the site as there is very little signposting even in French. He was quite knowledgeable about the site, or really good at making up stories about the various rooms and artifacts within the site. (I’m joking by the way, he really was a good guide and what he told us was mirrored on the few signs that were in place and in the LP). You’ve got to give Moroccans credit. This guy spoke 4 to 5 languages, mostly self taught!

The tumbled down stones have in places been partially restored but they certainly have a long way to go. (You’re all going to have to wait for the photo’s since for the most part the internet connection is really slow here and no USB ports or card readers to download them anyway. I know you are all very disappointed and upset over that!)

Moulay Idriss

Next on the days agenda, we had the Grandis Taxi for half a day so we figured we might as well pout it to good use, was the town of Moulay Idriss and we spent some time just wandering the streets. The place is very important to Moroccans as Moulay Idriss (the person) is credited with being the founder of Morocco’s first Dynasty and he is regarded as a saint. As such the town has become a pilgrimage site and has only been open to non-Muslim’s for the last 70 years.

The locals seem to be a lot more traditional than what we’ve encountered so far here in Morocco with very few wearing western clothing. Donkeys are also put to use a great deal as a method of both transport and beast of burden.

Meknes
We returned to Meknes and changed to Sweet Sultana Raid. Just up the alleyways a bit and around the corner from Ryad Bahia. Sweet Sultana Raid while a little more basic than Ryad Bahia the price is correspondingly cheaper. The owner is lovely and welcoming and their is a quaint little dining area off the central courtyard. Filled with cushions and curtains. You have to order your food in advance, I’m assuming so she can go out and purchase the ingredients.

In the afternoon we walked across the open courtyard of the Palac El-Hedim towards the Bab el Mansour. The gate is one of those big massive ornate gates and was once the main enterence to Moulay Ismail Imperial city. The gate was finished by Moulay Ismail son in 1732.

Moulay Ismail is credited with being one of the people who set the ground work for what is today Morocco with his famous (or is it infamous?) Black Guard. With them he won many victories and managed to drive out the various powers from Northern Morocco.

We walked through the grounds and managed to walk in the wrong entrance (well it was the exit apparently) of Moulay Ismail Mausoleum.

Walking towards the Heri es-Souani and Agdal Basin we recognised that we must be near the real Palace by the simple tell tail sign of the appearance of armed guards at every entrance. We were not going to make the mistake of trying to walk through those doors since I really do not think those guards looked like they had a sense of humour!

The Heri es-Souani is a massive granary, or was, and is quite impressive in its design. It stored grain and feed for Ismail 12000 horses. A couple of them have been restored but the bulk of them have been left as is.

The Agdal Basin originally served not only as a reservoir for the sultans gardens but a pleasure lake. The basin is fed by a system of channel’s some of which are 25km long. Today is surrounded by benches and the young and some not so young spend time wandering around the lake or just sit and enjoy the tranquility away from the hustle of the city.